I must change my number…

It’s one of those things about being in Changchun that sometimes you experience things that would never happen in other places.

If I was staying here longer, I think I’m at that stage where I need to change my number again!
I got woken up the other night several times by texts messages sent to my phone, telling me happy Father’s day! 😕 The Chinese have a special day for something practically every month, they range from Children’s day to Army day to Tree Planting Day, not to mention the various lunar holidays that also crop up. The days vary in importance, but there seems to be a special day for almost everyone at some time or another!

Then there’s the random people that call my phone for a few seconds then hang up, this is pretty common and annoying, though I guess it’s harmless. Previously I was a little worried about such things, being in red China, I thought It might be something to do with the authorities. But now I know this is of course totally wrong, it’s almost always people trying to make friends, or just being overly curious wanting to chat with a foreigner.

It proliferates to the point where I’m getting so many calls and messages from people I don’t even know. People who don’t know me. People whom have never even met me!

I get messages from people in other provinces, who say things like they would like to meet me – they got my number from a friend. Or from people wanting me to work in someplace the other side of the country, from people asking advice on all sorts of things that I really am not qualified to answer! 🙂 Often I can only say I honestly dont know. I’m sorry I can’t help you. And how did you get this number!!!!

This became such a problem for me that I actually changed my phone number once. The situation was that I think every person on the campus knew my number- how they got this I still don’t know, though I suspect someone in the department gave it out.
Now I’m very careful about whom I give my phone number to, previously I didn’t have such reservations as it is a good way of meeting new people and getting into other things, especially the friend of a friend job thing, making connections etc….

Overall though, It’s flattering in a way to recieve such attention and there is a part of me that enjoys it all, however, sometimes it becomes really annoying. For example, not wanting to answer the phone if you don’t know what the number is!

There are also other sorts of Chinese messages that get sent to me pretty often. People offering various interesting personal services, selling fake IDs/documents, the black market lottery, even selling guns!

Interviews

I’ve finished giving mock job interviews to all of my students as part of their final exam, took two weeks, 202 in total! It’s been a good opportunity for them to get some experience as they really don’t know much about these things and also It gives me some useful knowledge, being the other side of the table for once. 🙂

I gave them the choice to choose their dream job, they had to arrange a time with me, sort it out themselves, those that didn’t do this will inevitably get a poor mark. Of all those interviewed, I would say that less than 10% would have actually got the job. I wasn’t being particuarly strict, it’s just most of them were pretty clueless and unable to sell themselves without jumping back to a memorised self introduction, that I explicity said was not allowed!

I’m teaching students in their 3rd year (out or 7) all of whom are studying to be doctors or dentists. Even though they are only about 2/3 years younger than me, they are very much still kids in many ways, quite immature, especially the boys who are more like 16 year olds. Don’t get me wrong, the students here are very hardworking, but they are compelled to do this, how much they actually learn is debatable. Sunday is their only day off, from 8-5 Monday to Friday they’re busy, Saturday is for practical experiments.Then there is my class which is in the evening.

So in all, over 40 hours a week of classroom time, not to mention homework! 🙁

I’ve taught at many different universities and my general observation is that the single biggest difference between the students here and at other universities is their provenance, not their ability.I would say totally, 85-90% of my students are from Changchun, most (if not all) have parents and or family relation that is a doctor or in the medical profession. Which will of course, in the future enable them to get a medical job upon graduation! Is this the same in the UK? Yes i’m sure it is but not quite to the same extent that it is in China.

Something I’ve noticed over the last year of teaching at this univerisity, is that students from smaller cities or towns, outside of the province almost always are better students. They are faster, more interested and much more likely to question things. One of my favourite techniques in the classroom to encourage debate, is to deliberately say a statement that will try to provoke a reaction; i.e something they disagree with – If only to get them to express their own opinions on things.

They are the few students that have the ability to critically analyse something, to use independent thought not just to blindly follow what other people think. I think this is partly due to their upbringing -because they have to have been very astute, motivated and diligent to have been able to have got this far – afterall the university entrace system blantently descrimates against those who don’t have access to the best high schools and thus the coaching for the crucial entrance exam.

However, more often than not in China, if you’re unfortunate to be born into poverty there basically is no chance whatsoever. Here you could be the next Motzart or Einstein but if you’re born into a poor family in the countryside you will probably never have the opportunity to show your talents. In this sense, It’s a nation of unfairness, a nation of real extremes, haves a have nots.

I think the big difference is that, for all its faults, in the west there you still have a chance, allbeit slim. Whether this is due to the education system, system of government, or the simple fact that the gap between rich and poor is not as big, I’m not so sure. 😕

Fortunately there are exceptions, take one of my students from a very small town in southern China, his dream to be a doctor. Or the Chinese korean students that are very, very quick. They have the added advantage of being trilingual – when you’ve already mastered two languages a third one is so much easier to grasp. The girl from a very remote part of northern China, bordering Russia, who brought up on a farm with no access to education as we know it – family used all of their savings (and borrow) to pay for her to go to high school and have a chance at getting into university.

On the other hand, the advantages to this system are that it preserves the status quo, keeps those rich people rich while allowing those who are not so poor a very limited shot. Which is what I think the system is trying to achieve i.e perpetuating the class system.

It’s sometimes easy being a foreigner looking at things in China, from my comfortable postion things may seem interesting or curious where in reality they are tough and not really very nice. I just wonder what I would be like if I was Chinese, born into such an environment, where the best and brightest or the richest and most lucky want to go abroad and most likely not return permananty.

Boiling

hot!Rather suddenly it’s got really hot, too hot actually, can’t do anything without sweating buckets and/or getting fried – going outside is a chaw. I’m lucky though, as my apartment is air conditioned because it can be miserable living in a place that has little or no ventilation – especially during the summer months.

Being so far inland means that the weather stays pretty contant during this time of the year, but it also means you don’t have the advantage of a fresh sea breeze so at times the air gets a little dusty.

Short Trip

ghengis khan's homeBack from a short trip to see Ghengis Kahn’s 成吉思汗 hometown, was interesting but not a place I would travel to again. There just isn’t anything left of what used to be here and it’s just very hard to imagine what things would have been like many years ago when this was the centre of one of the most expansive empires there ever was.

The buildings that were once here have gone, there is now a temple sandy landscapebuilt in its place, and to be direct, once you’ve seen a temple you’ve seen them all. The town itself, 呼兰浩特 Helanhete, could be any small Chinese city. Non descript, bland and like a thousand other places in China- bereft of any originality. Also couldn’t find any Mongolian food and compared to Changchun prices were a little more than expected. At least I can say I’ve to Mongolia, allbeit Inner Mongolia which is now part of the PRC of course.
If I could use one word to describe things I would say ‘neglected’.

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旅行

我去内蒙古呼兰浩特看成吉思汗的故乡。 但是那个地方和我想像中的不一样。 只剩下了一点点的文化古迹。

我们在呼兰浩特吃羊肉串和啤酒。 那个地方的士是小面包真有意思啊, 然后我们去了齐齐哈尔。 在齐齐哈尔那天晚上我们刚进旅店就下起了大雨。 我们顶大雨去超市

第二天回家因为我有课。 如果我有时间我想往北走的更远些

登吉塔

我住在长春两年多可是有那么多的地方我还没有去过。 这个是在吉塔照的照片,登上吉塔看长春觉得长春非常小。

Sunshine

Starting to notice people taking out umbrellas doubling as parasols to protect themselves from the suns rays. The sun in Changchun is particularly bright (I often have to wear sunglasses) and surprisingly strong, much stronger than it ever gets in the UK.

The Chinese have a notion about white skin that those in the west may find peculiar, most of all that getting a tan is not a good thing. Many associate darker skin with uneducated peasant workers or people from the countryside that work on the farms. Their skin is darker because they have to stay outside all day trying to make a living. Whereas, In the west, many think people who are too white look unhealthy but here it is considered a form of beauty to be whiter.

There are many beauty products available on the market – just watch TV and you’re sure to be constantly reminded of this through those never ending TV adverts -about things that can make the skin more pale and ‘whiter’. I have explained, much to the surprise of those being told, that in the west some people actually pay money to make their skin darker, either through cosmetics or sitting under a light for a few hours.

It strikes me that wherever you go, people always have this idea that being something you’re not is somehow better.

Personally, I have a dislike of tans not only because I burn fast but because I think it is silly. Besides the obvious cancer concerns, I have no interest whatsoever in getting a tan, I see it as like putting yourself in the microwave for a few hours, and that’s not something that I really want to do! In this sense I’m with the Chinese in terms of the way they protect themselves from the sunshine, though I disagree with the idea of one colour of skin being better or more beautiful than another.

One of my favourite pastimes of late has been to go swimming. Even though I’m not a very good swimmer, It’s a great way to relax and forget about things, however, It can at times be a little intimidating as everyone stares at the man with the white skin. I know foreigners that wont go swimming here as they can’t stand the stares, Chinese don’t have much body hair and seeing a man with hair on his body, is for some, akin to seeing a monkey at the zoo! Therefore, I guess I’m lucky in that I’m on a par with the Chinese men when it comes to this, so once I’m in the pool with goggles and hat on, nobody can tell! 🙂

烹饪法 Cuisine

I’ve pretty much recovered from the incident on Friday 😀

Unfortunately its not so uncommon, apparently groups of thieves operate (especially in the summer) and bag snatchings/pickpockets taking phones are most common.

I count myself lucky that I got my camera back and apart from a horrible feeling in shock, I escaped unscathed.

It is nowhere near as big a problem as cities in the south of China (where women wont take bags with them at night), I would still say that Changchun is a pretty safe city and that I was just unlucky, indeed I feel much safer here than I would in a UK city of similar size (i.e. london).

I guess the big difference is that if something happens to you the chances of the police catching the perpetrators and you getting justice are very slim/impossible, whereas in the UK there is actually a reasonable chance of catching the offender.

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I almost always eat out as it fits in best with my work but also because I can’t be bothered to try and cook something myself as I don’t have time and the economics of it make it not worth my while. It’s dirt cheap to eat out, I generally spend less than 10 yuan a day.

I thought to myself a while back, when I’m in the UK I won’t be able to get this kind of food anymore. Especially the dongbei (north eastern) cusine and as that’s one of my favourites it would be such a shame to not be able to eat it。 It’s a pitty that in China dongbei food is often forgotten about – people talk about Cantonese food, Sichuan food, Shanghai food, Hunan food but seldom the food from Manchuria.

My initial way to choose different types of food was to pick out random dishes from the menu, It was always fun wondering what was going to be ordered, and If anything, it gives you the chance to try some rather interesting stuff. I’ll try pretty much anything once, however, I’ve learnt that it’s often best not to ask where something is from if it tastes good – being told you’re eating pigs intestins is an instant turn off 😕

The reason I write about this now is that I can see a serious problem developing, that is I don’t really like the food back home anymore. There are exceptions, I’m looking forward to a sunday dinner; but my tastes have changed in that I find myself saying things that Chinese people would say about western food – ‘it has no flavour’ ‘it’s too heavy’ ‘it’s bland’.

I also eat less food, a UK portion is now too much for me to eat….
So over the last week I’ve been trying to learn a few dishes, so that when I go back I can at least make some Chinese food that I’ll like, as Chinese food from UK takeaways doesn’t taste good to me.

It’s English-Chinese food just as the western food here is Chinese-western.

Luckily, I have a decent sized kitchen that I should make the best of, I also have all the utilsils and equipment, and now, I actually have the time.

jiangtang tofu soupActually it’s not so difficult to learn, I am no chef, but It’s only taken me a few times to get it right. When I first got to China a friend taught me how to cook two basic Chinese dishes- Eggs with tomatoes and eggs and rice.

For me, I have about 10-15 favourite dishes of which realistically, I could learn 5 to cook, given the timeframe and my lack of culinary knowledge! 😉 I’m also thinking in terms of the of the ingredients that are available in the UK (Unfortunately dog meat is off the menu!), my suitcase will no doubt will be full of various sauces, spices and other cooking stuff! haha.

Most of the foods don’t really translate into english well (as many restaurant menus testify!) so I use the Chinese name and an English description.

disanxian 地三鲜 potatoes, aubergine, and peppersdisanxian
tudousi 土豆丝 potatoes sliced thin
shuijuniurou 水煮牛肉 bolied beef with cabbage and lots of spices
jiangtang 酱汤 – tofu based soup with bean sprouts, kind of smelly – one of my favourites. 🙂
tiebandoufu, 铁板豆腐 – Tofu with peppers
tudoushaoniurou,土豆烧牛肉 -Beef and pototoes
baozi 包子 – Steamed roll with meat/cabbage inside
tudoujiang 土豆酱 – Mashed potato with sauce
bing 饼 -pancakes bing pancake
malatang 麻辣烫 – Hot hot hot!
dafengshou 大丰收 – ‘gan’ Tofu rolled up with Chinese onion and egg/meat based sauce. 做那个真是小菜一碟!
jioazi 饺子 Dumplings, boiled, steamed of fried.
zhajiangmian 炸酱面 – noodles with silced cucumber and egg based sauce.
suantianrouduan 酸甜肉段 Sweet and sour.

And two foreigners’ favourites; gongbaojiding 宫保鸡丁and guobaorou 锅包肉– About a year ago, I spbaozient some time trying to perfect gongbaojiding -the problem with this dish is its really time consuming as it requires much preparation and everything being diced up. But I now know how to make this and It’s something I can use in the future.

I would like to know how to make guobaorou guobaoroubut I think It would be too difficult for me to do! 😕 Anyone know how??:?:
At present I’m going through a Jiangqiezi 酱茄子 (sliced aubergine with beef) craze, kind of addicted to this at the moment. 🙂
Even better it’s dead easy to make, the hardest part is knowing the sauces to use to get the right flavours. I asked the chef at the local restaurant that I reguarly frequent if he could tell me what he uses – and that I wasn’t going to steal his recipe! – It’s really easy when you know how, you can get everything you need from the supermarket and it costs next to nothing.
I’m sure there will be many types of food that I shall miss – hotpot 火锅, 咸菜 Specifically Korean, 新疆 Xinjiang, 回 Hui, 肉串 Kebabs, 铁板 (cooked in front of you on a hot steel table), 骨头 Meat on Bones (bad translation I know) , 北京烤鸭 Beijing noodles!!!Duck(different here from beijing, not as crispy, cooked differently -better in my opinion) 混沌 Dumpling things in soup, 羊腿 Mongolian style lamb’s leg and 米线 Yunnan noodles , in to name but a few…

However, I certainly wont be missing 美国加州牛肉面大王 or 臭豆腐!! 😀

小偷 Thief

I was at the South Lake earlier this afternoom, I often go there as it’s a cool place to study and I like the environment as it’s kind of an escape from the city.

Today though something bad happened to me, I guess it was only a matter of time but you never expect it to happen to you.
I decided to have a walk around the south side of the lake as I wanted to get some good pictures of the lake from this side. I took a load of pictures then realised that I didn’t actually have any pictures of myself from this place.

So at about 3.30 I asked a passerby if he could help me and take a picture of me. It is just my luck that the person whom I asked was probably a thief, though how was I to know? He was about my age, smartly dressed and seemed co-operative, all too co-operative as I was to find out.

I stepped back, asked him to get the side of the lake in the background and take the picture, however just as he was about to do this he bolted. He ran as fast as he could with my camera in his hand, along the side of the lake.

I instinctively ran after him, I didn’t have time to think about what I was doing. I am a fast runner (my long legs are useful sometimes! :)) but he had a good advantage over me and the fact I was carrying all my books in my rucksack made it harder to catch up.

As I ran I shouted ‘ 小偷’ ‘xiaotou’ but in such a situation you don’t really plan what you are doing, it just happens. People just stood-by and watched the laowai running after the thief , chuckling im sure, but did any of them consider helping out, I think not. 😡 It is huge indictment on a society when nobody will lift a finger to help somone in distress, and when it happens to you it makes you feel sick.

It makes you feel disgusted at other human beings.

I ran for about 100 metres, probably the fastest 100m i’ll ever run – it all went so fast – I could see he was tring to get onto a red moped that was parked. We’re still in the park, on the promenade, in the middle of the path. I’m still shouting to help, but still no response. It’s at this moment he has to stop to get onto the parked bike, I manage to catch up with him, just behind the bike, and I make a rugby tackle from behind.

I connected, my hands wrapped round his neck, I’m running as fast as I can run . The bike veres off to the right, my hands wrapped round his neck, then I lunge and he falls of his bike. He fell down the embankment and I fell onto the path.
In the fracas my camera was dropped by him, I quickly pick it up. His bike continued for a few metres then hit a stone pillar on the right on the path. stone pillar on path His lights his bike in the distanceand mirrors smashed and something fell off the front of the bike.

He was lying on the grass trying to scurry away I ran over grabbed his neck, gave him a piece of my mind – every single swear word I could think of, he was trying to escape, so I punched him in the face. I have never hit anybody before, i just did it, but it felt good. Again nobody thought to help, despite there being many people there.
I then thought what now, what do I do? I could call the police, but we all know how totally useless they are at anything to do with solving crimes and I’d probably be put straight through to an answer machine like the last time I tried to call 110! Or the laowai would get into trouble, I’d risk puting myself through an ordeal.
I could just beat him into a pulp (i’m certain that’s what any dong bei nan ren would do) until he can’t move, but that could cause me problems (being the laowai) and I want to teach him a lesson not put him in hospital for a month.

So I sat on him for few minutes, figuring out what to do. I called a few people but nobody answered, so I decided to let him go. He got up, picked up the debris from his bike started swearing at me saying all sorts of nasty stuff – so I retaliated again with my long list of nasty chinese insults (and I know so many insults!) 🙂 and pushed him over. He must have been about 1.7m tall compared to my 1.87, I’m a beanpole but there was no doubt that he was fighting a losing battle.

He then turned round and rode off into the distance. I took pictures of him, but the memory card had falled out of my camera and so they didn’t work!!! 😡

Once i’d found the card on the floor i took another picture but it was too late. I got his number plate, so I could persue this through other channels if I so choose. But I havn’t go t the energy to do anything more about this at the moment. his bike in the distance

Now, I hate violence, I am not a violent person but when something like this happens to you, its difficult to predict how you’ll react.
At that moment I wanted that guy to suffer for his actions. I saw the red mist, reason was not something i was going to think about. In my opinion, people who think you can train for these situations are mistaken, your instincts cut in, self preservation, and for me extreme rage.

Now I feel physically sick from this, my gut is churning and to be honest If I didn’t stil have work commitments, I’d be on the first plane out of here. 🙁

Dealing with the boss.

Waiban 外办 Foreign Affairs Officer (FAO)
The waibans (Foreign Affairs Officer) I’ve experiened range from bloodyminded crooks to incompetent halfwits – Out of the 5 I’ve dealt with 2 were incompetent, 2 serial liars and only 1 I would consider a straight person.

My current waiban would squarly go into the second category. Waibans are quite powerful people and have a lot of authority, therefore they delegate their real work to others, usually a over-eager student looking for a foot on the university career ladder. However, this person is given no authority to do anything of any consequence, therefore cannot act without first asking the waiban for permission. You would think this defeats the purpose of having subordinates to do your paperwork but there is a very good reason for it.

Ultimately everything that is done by the waibans dept (at jida this is ironically titled the dept of international co-operation… haha) comes back to the boss. If there is a problem he or she will take the flack for it. This is what they told me anyway, but I’m not convinced.

I think a bigger reason is that by delegating to somebody else, they may do a better job than the boss and so could ultimatly threaten their position. By keeping everyone under them, the boss exterts a lot of control and keeps his/her own positon secure.

Often therefore, if the boss isn’t around nothing of any consequence can get done! A great example of this is when I needed to get my visa extended, a quite straight-forward process for them you would think. However the boss has been on ‘business‘ in Taiwan for the last month and so I had to wait until she got back!

The impression I get is that people in positions of power and influence are terrified of losing their status, and will go to lengths that are detriment of others to protect themselves. Based on recent history they have good reason to be so, it wasn’t long ago things were so different here.

So, trying to get what you want from the waiban is often very difficult if it involves them actually doing their job, doubly so if it invlves money owed to you. The waiban’s primary function, in my eyes, is to skim as much of the foreign teachers salary as possible into their own pockets, and to perhaps help out the foreign techers if they feel inclined to do so!

The FAO is no fool and knows the inner workings of the system much better than you and so uses this position to achieve a degree of inequality of bargaining power , in induces duress to get what he/she wants. The law will not help you, contractual issues are simply not so important.

The waibans favourite tactic is to agree with you and say ‘ok, we’ll sort it out’ so you leave happy thinking things are resolved. Wrong. 😡 Come the next week nothing has been done – it’s the oldest trick in the book the ‘tell you what you want to hear’ line.

I have learnt a few ways to deal with this, firstly:

Complain, complain, complain. Call them all the time, keep hasseling them in the end they will capitulate, as they simply want you to go away so they can get on with playing QQ games and downloading that lastest Korean soap.

If you dont have the time or patients to do this tape record and or ask him/her to write down what has been promised. If they have nothing to hide they will have no problem in doing this. Actually, this is my favourite technique, I like to throw it in during a meeting as an off-the-cuff comment ‘so you’d have no problem in signing this, right?’ 😀

Don’t threaten them with ‘but in my country bla bla bla‘ that’s meaningless here and just shows how little you understand about this place. I also would never directly threaten somebody directly face to face – do not get angry or shout – act forcefully but don’t lose your temper for that is a big faux pas. I prefer more sinister and subtle tactics, like anonymous letters and picking up on something that is of value to the waiban.

In my instance, the reputation of the school, they were at pains to tell me how great this university is, how great the students are , how we’ve spent billions yuan on this, that and the other… Actually, I don’t really care. Honestly speaking, there isn’t a great divide (reputations aside -the name of the school means everything) between the levels of schools. I’m more interested in the things that impact on me – like accommodation, where/when I work, salary and will you actually pay me!

And so i made a veiled reference that it would be a shame for people to hear bad stories about teachers at Jida, that you don’t pay your teachers….They’re still sorting things out, but they owe all the teachers their vacation pay – I’m talking more than 10K per teacher… I’ll write in depth about it if they dont pay up…..

They will speak big words, promise so much, and fool many -afterall they’ve been doing this for years – the crunch is in what they do, not what they say.
Someone said to me that you seem to keep stepping into holes, I answer this by saying it comes with the territory. It’s the way it is in this job, especially so in provincial Changchun. it’s not a question of falling into holes but a question of there being holes everywhere. You have to deal with it and in a way, it’s like a game.

Direct action should be used sparingly, and is a last resort – I have used this once in relation to my apartment. I simply said I won’t teach until you sort this out as it is very serious. This worked and within 24 hours I had a new place, but this should be used carefully, you must have other alternatives first.

I think I suffer more than most as people don’t take me seriously, because of a combination of my age my appearance. They think he looks friendly, young and inexperienced, so we can mess with him. He won’t understand, he probably won’t care, he’s fair game. I still get this despite people knowing I’ve been here a while and I know how things are, Maybe If I could grow a beard and shave my head then people would be afriad of me?

It’s annoying when people judge you like this, but we all judge people by the way they look to an extent, its a fact of life.